Monday, July 5, 2010

Back in the US-- Finally a Fast WiFi Connection

In Ft Lauderdale. Plane is about to take off. Will be pressed for time over the next few days. Pictures and videos will be available when I get a chance.

This trip has been wonderful. I saw some really cool things, and got a chance to really relax.

Now it is time for a word from our sponsors.

This trip would not have been possible without West Georgia Technical College and IKEA. If it had not been for them, I would not have been richer than ever before, and I would not have been able to afford this trip.

www.westgatech.edu

www.IKEA.com


This trip was also brought to you by Stone Mountain Park. If I had not climbed Stone Mountain forty times over the one hundred days before my trip, I would have never been able to do the walking I did at the high altitude and up so many hills.

www.stonemountainpark.com

A special thanks also goes out to Spirit Air. If the company and their pilots had not come to an agreement on wages, the strike might never have ended, and I may have had to change my plans and go Las Vegas or the Grand Canyon or someplace else closer to home.

www.spiritair.com

Oh! And I can't forget the wonderful people at the Hostal Pension Alemana in Cusco. The people of Cusco are terrific, but the people at the Hostal Pension Alemana were the best!

(I'll have to find their website later; the plane is boarding.)

--NB

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Leaving for the US today

Last day here. I am actually looking forward to getting back home.

Yesterday

Enjoyed seeing downtown Lima. Experienced it all on foot. My dogs are still achin' me.

First stopped by a set of ruins here in Miraflores called --------. We had a cool tour guide whose services were included in the ticket price(!). The people whe built this site predated the Incas by as many years as the Inca predated us. To protect against damage due to earthquakes, the hand-made mud bricks were laid vertically instead of horizontally. They built a step pyramid temple, which was later abandoned, fell into disrepair, became covered in dust and debris, and eventually began to look like a big hill in the landscape. In the 1900s, a large portion of the site was destroyed when the city expanded into its space, but the part that stands now was saved and is still in the process of being excavated. While my tour group was there, the excavation team found a fossilized frog.

Downtown Lima is several miles away, but I walked all the way there, stopping several times along the way to grab some snacks at the cafes. Real lunch was found at a mondern foot court where I had some Chineese food much like what you would find at Panda Express, just not as good.

At the Plaza de Armas, there was a big fan plex area for the World Cup, where Spain was playing Paraguay. It was weird to walk through there, as everyone was staring at the big screen TV.

Then it was off to the Iglesia de San Francisco. Beutiful church. On the museum tour, we got to see the catacombs! I was not at all grossed out by all the bones. But I was freaked out by the small enclosed space. I was in a fairly large tour group, and the closeness we experienced was highly uncomfortable. I was also very worried that there would be an earthquake, and we would be the final people laid to rest in the catacombes.

On the way back, I stopped in San Isidro, where there is a park full of olive trees. Apparently the park was an orchard before the city engulfed it. The park was a nice respite from the city, which is constantly hoppin'.

I found a grocery store, where I bought some Pisco to take home with me. I want to try my hand at making Pisco Sour.

Off to the airport later today. Flight departs latelatelate tonight. Arrival in Atlanta earlyearlyearly tomorrow.

--NB

Friday, July 2, 2010

First impressions of Lima

Picture it: Eastern Europe, 1991. A man in his salad days spends his first few days of his backpacking trip across Europe in Warsaw, Poland. At the time, the city was just crawling out from under the heavy thumb of communism. The people were sad, the weather was dreary, and the future seemed bleak. Days later, the man departed from this place of sadness, escaping to the town of Krakow, also in Poland. There he saw sunshine, saw smiling faces, and felt a general sense of optimism.

At first, today it seemed that today's Cusco is to yesteryear's Krakow as today's Lima is to yesteryear's Warsaw. My opinion has changed, but more on that later.

Before leaving Cusco today, I stopped by Jack's cafe for breakfast again. Delicious grilled ham and cheese sandwich. Open-faced. M'mm. I can't wait to get on the scales in Atlanta and see how much I have put on on this trip. Met some old people from Holland who apparently do a lot of traveling at this time in their lives: Just ended a 7-week trip to Bolivia and Peru. One has been to Machu Picchu three times in the past three years, and is so good at doing the "trekking", which I want to do on my next trip here, that he does not need to go through an agency anymore: He is setting up his own trip, hiring his own guides, etc.

Seeing these folks in their seventies going on long excursions made me feel a lot more positive about my opportunities to travel in the future. For so much of my twenties and thirties I could not afford to make a trip like the one I have made this year, and much of the time I have been here, I have mourned the fact that I am limited to two weeks here. But I guess I have retirement to look forward to. All I have to do is make sure I have enough money when I am in my seventies to go on big long trips. I will surely have the time (if I actually do retire).

Before leaving on my flight, I got the chance at the airport to try the "milk punch"-- the only ingredients I remember are in it are milk and Pisco. M'mm. It probably has sugar in it too.

Plane trip to Lima: Amazing. On the way out to Cusco it was dark most of the way. I only got to see the landscape for the last few minutes near Cusco. It turns out that mountains abound almost the entire way between Cusco and Lima. Most of the mountains are similar to the ones near Cusco: Green to brown with little vegetation. People scattered about in villages here and there, but not everywhere. High up; much higher than the Appalachians. But in the far distance I could see h.u.g.e. mountains. With ice caps. What the Andes are really famous for. That's one place I would like to go on my next trip to Peru.

On my arrival in Lima, I was at first slightly disappointed. Dreary weather. Too many people. It felt like Manhattan-- or probably Brooklyn-- without the cool stuff at first.

But then I got out for a while and realized it is much better than I thought. The people are extremely nice, just like in Cusco; and much nicer than in the US. It also appears that there are a lot more English-speakers.

I'm staying in Miraflores, which is just south of downtown. Not far from the hotel, I grabbed lunch/dinner-- more typical Peruvian fare: Beef(?) or pork(?) with tomatoes, potatoes, and rice. More Pisco Sour. Second favorite Pisco Sour so far. Only two more days to go to find the best one.

Near the restaurant is a park where some performances take place sometimes. It turns out that the performance that was going on when I got there was a group of kids from (??) Cleveland, Ohio (!! ) performing some jazz. They were pretty good.

After that, I walked to the Pacific Ocean. I know the history behind why we call it the Pacific, but I tell you, both places where I have seen it-- San Francisco and here-- it does not seem very peaceful. Here it is thrashing about anxiously. The Atlantic seems much more calm. Peaceful or not, it is very beautiful. Hoping to see the sun set there tomorrow. Today it was too dreary.

There was an improptu-almost-parade that got started close to the edge of the cliffs: Lots of horns blowing and flags waving celebrating Uruguay's victory over Ghana in South Africa this afternoon in the battle for the World Cup.

Right on the cliffs, is a big ol' mall-- the Larcomar. I stopped by, and felt like I was at Lenox Square, speaking of which, I do not think I have been there in ten years. I wonder if it is still there (??).

Before heading back to the hotel, I stopped for cheesecake and cappuccino. You've got to live it up while you can. It will be back to beans and rice, rice and beans in the ATL on Tuesday.

--NB

Olloytaytambo and More; Goodbye to Cusco

Has it been three days since my last posting? M'mm H'mm. Sorry about the delay.

Wednesday

2+ hour bus trip to Olloytaytambo. More astonishingly beautiful ruins. Also looked around in the town. All of the streets in town parallel to the site have irrigation canals running through them.

I lost my hat in Olloytaytambo.

I then went to nearby Urumbamba, which does not have ruins, but, according to my guidebook, has a restaurant that serves a buffet that includes a free Pisco Sour. I never found the restaurant, but did find another one that serves a delicious meal for $2, which begs the question of whether it is appropriate to eat in an establishment that sells meal for $2, mostly to locals if you can afford to eat someplace fancier and pay more. I don't know. I have enjoyed the $25 meals, but some of the $2 meals, where there is really not much choice in what you eat, have been some of my favorites.

New rule for inter-city travel on buses in Peru: When you can find a bus that costs double, it is worth it! I paid $1 to get from Cusco to Urumbamba early in the morning. We were packed into the bus like sardines when we left the bus station. On the way we picked up more people. On the way back, there just happpened to be a space on a bus that cost $2. After all of the seats were full, we left, and we picked up no one on the way. There was soft music playing in the background. Some people were able to fall asleep.

Arrived back in Cusco and actually enjoyed a museum. It was the Museo Inka, which had a lot of information about the Inca civilization. I actually spent quite a bit of time there.

Thursday

Down-time day. No real agenda on Thursday. After waking up, I decided to take a bus to the outskirts of town as far as it would go, and see what was there. It stopped in a village called Osoco (?). I got out and walked around. I ended up walking to a nearby village, which had a huge lake near it, as well as a USAID temporary housing relief site nearby. I do not know the story behind that. The people staying there are living in 18 square meters of space. I do not know how many people share that space.

Forgot the sunscreen Thursday. Got a little sunburned on the face and ears, but not too bad. It is actually a little better this morning.

I ate and ate and ate yesterday, stopping in two fancy restaurants. One was a place where I had been already-- the place that was out of the Nelson Mandela desert. This time they had it. M'mm. I was expecting something else-- it was a piece of pie with the chocolate, cream, rum, and brazil nuts. I was expecting it to be like an ice cream sundae without the icecream. Still it was delicious. By the time I got home in the evening, I felt like I was about to pop!

Today

I am leaving the hotel in a few hours. My flight to Lima is in the early afternoon. Happy 4th of July weekend to you!

--NB

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Tipon (finally!)

Pictures? Videos? Still coming later due to slow wi-fi connection. Look for them sometime in early July after I am back in the US and after school is in swing. I have some new video from my archeological site visit today (using my camera). I have no idea if I will ever be able to salvage my videos on my iPod. We will see.

For what it is worth, yesterday I felt like this town had chewed me up and spit me out! Rain, trouble getting to Tipon, and more caused me to want to throw a pity party.

During my pity party, I spent some of the time on youtube. One of the things I discovered is that there are at least two "Golden Girls The Musical"s-- one in New York, and one in L.A. Hello? That was my idea at least five years ago??? But of course my version was going to have real stars in it including Cher playing Dorothy.

Today was much, much better. I slept until 8. Then got started toward Tipon.

Without going into too much detail, despite trying to be careful about the water I drink, I think I developed some sort of intestinal virus. Yuck! I have been eating the free breakfast here at the hotel, which I skipped today. I feel much better.

Y'know I am still having a lot of trouble shaking the fact that I used to be a poor person. So whenever something is free or cheap, I still jump at it, even if it may not be good for me. This morning, I stopped by one of the neighborhood restaurants for breakfast. I splurged on American-style pancakes and sausage, and delicious mocha. M'mm.

But really, I need to start spending more money. If I am not careful, I will be taking some of the Peruvian money I brought with me home with me. I do not want that.

I still got a little lost trying to catch the bus to Tipon. It is also not where it says on the internet that it would be. But I found it today. 38 cents got me a one-way hour-long ride to the town. Then I paid mucho dinero ($4) for the 30-minute taxi ride to the site at the top. My cabbie Freddy tried to talk to me in Spanish the whole way. I did a lot of nodding. We cleared up the fact that "bull" in English is "toro" in Spanish. And I clarified to him that I wanted to walk down the mountain for free on the way back.

Tipon is marvelous. I think I like it the best of the sites that I have seen so far. The site is a place where there was a vast irrigation system that still is functioning today. While there, of course I walked as far up as I could, and then walked farther than what appeared to be the normal park area. There is an "Inca trail" section, which I did not explore very much. There is also a section of an Inca canal that went way up the mountain. I thought I could follow it up to its source, but it was just too high.

A nice couple took some pictures of me, and yes, Mother, there is a picture of me smiling and facing the sun. It will be uploaded as soon as possible. (No, Mother, I do not remember if my teeth were showing when I smiled.)

On the way down, I got see a boy riding a horse up the mountain, and I got to see a girl and her mother leading a couple of bulls up the mountain. A swear a couple of scoundrels threw a rock at me. I at some ice cream, and listened to the singing that was taking place at the local parish church. It sounded like the preacher was doing most of the singing, and the congregation was sitting there waiting for something else to happen. I did not go in.

Back in Cusco it was time for lunch (at 3:30??). One of the restaurants I wanted to eat at was not there anymore but the one in its place was delicous. The food in Peru is truly marvelous. Today it was vegetable cream soup, and some sort of vegetable curry. More Pisco Sour-- M'mmm; probably the best I've had here so far, but not the one with the most Pisco in it. Y'know potatoes are big here-- eaten 'em. So is corn-- haven't had any yet. Whenever I try to order something with corn in it, they seem to be out of it. Just like today.

It's now almost 6 and I am going to bed soon. I am heading out to Ollotaytambo (sp?) tomorrow. Wakeup call is at 4. Bus ride: 2-3 hours. I am hoping a can get a seat on the bus, so that I can do some reading or something.

Monday, June 28, 2010

Spent the last two days closer to Cusco

Internet connection problems caused all that I wrote in the last little while to disappear. Later: Starting over again.

The last post I made referred to the Kusikay event that I was going to. It was amazing... definitely worth the trip. Luckily most of it was physical movement and no words, so I was not lost. The story was about the life of the Incas before, during, and after the arrival of the Spanish. So So Sad in some places. Overall, a happy telling of the story. There was a lot of acrobatics/music/dancing that took place. After every act there was a little audience participation/magic/comedy. Unfortunately, the theater was not full, so I think everyone heard me laughing the loudest in a lot of places.

Earlier on Saturday

Looked around in Cusco at some of the sites that I had not seen yet.

I had not been inside the Cathedral and other big churches yet, so I made a point of going there. The main cathedral and another big church were built around the same time in the main square. They both are huge. They both are beautiful. Both put a lot of the European cathedrals that I toured 20 years ago to shame. Also went to see the San Blas cathedral, which is older smaller, and way up the hill near where I am staying. Also very beautiful.

Sunday

Return to Pisac, this time for the big market that they hold there--- biggest in Peru? I was not all that excited, but again, I am not a big shopper. The biggest memories I have are, (1) constantly being asked to buybuybuy, (2) seeing about 24 different brilliantly colored spices lined up in bowls in a way that made me want to buy bags of all of them just to keep around the house to look at them, and (3) watching a woman butcher a goat, or some other small animal. It was all done very matter-of-factly, and I just gawked like she had discovered something new and was showing the world for the first time what she can do. We are so sheltered in the US.

Later it was museum time. Not much to say about them. I'll leave it at that.

Today

Woke up early to go to the ruins at Tipon. But was disappointed to discover that the directions to the bus stop I had written down after checking in a guidebook at a restaurant no longer apply. With my limited Spanish, I tried to ask around, but could not get the information I needed from anyone. Luckily we have a little thing called the internet. I think I am square now, and that I will be able to make the trip tomorrow. I hope.

It rained today. It is the dry season here so I was surprised. It has always been so sunny and nice every day: cool mornings, warm afternoons, weather to make me never want to go back to Atlanta. But the rain changed my mind about that. I am dry now, but while I was getting wet, I was trying to find the way to Tipon, trying to change my flight, and trying to change my hotel reservation. I have decided to stay in Cuzco three days longer. That leaves me just two days in Lima before I leave for the US latelatelate on Sunday. I'll be missing the 4th of July for the first time in 2o years.

Did a little work for school. Classes start in 9 days???? Now it's time decide what is for dinner.

--NB

Saturday, June 26, 2010

Machu Picchu? Check!

Technology sadness:

1) In my new room the internet connnection is worse. Pictures and videos will be coming later.
2) My iPod is malfunctioning. I can tell it is "thinking". But the display screen is not working. So I cannot figure out where the video from my hike up the mountain at Pisac is. Will try to figure it out.
3) My AOL account is sending phantom emails to everyone I know. If you got a XYZABC* link from me via email, sorry!!!

All right! Down to business.

Trip to Machu Picchu was grueling. The train line is broken in places due to landslides in February(?). So I had to take a bus for two+ hours then change to the train for the last one+ hour.

The view was spectacular. The bus ride up from the nearby town was amazing. I tried my best not to look down due to the fact that, again, the bus was right up at the edge of a cliff most of the time. Every time we did another switchback, we got another view of the giant mountain on the other side of the valley. Words cannot describe its beauty. Hence the sadness associated with no pictures yet!

Once inside, I saved the actual archaeological stuff for later, and decided it was time to hike up even farther. There is a side trail that you can take that allows you to see the site from the perspective of people who did the 4-day trek into the site from 20 miles away. I dilly-dallyied for too long this past winter, so I was not able to secure a spot on one of these space-limited jaunts.

One thing I really noticed about Peru yesterday was that they are not sticklers for nanny-style safety like we have in the U.S. The result is that you have to be careful, really. But you also get to find yourself in places you would not normally get to be in. The view up there: Amazing.

The actual site was beautiful. But I usually like looking at things like this from afar, admiring the entire unit as a whole rather than paying attention to all the small details that were there. The main thing I was thinking about while I was in the residential area was just wondering why in the world people would choose to live so high in the sky. But I guess living there would be better living than down in the valley, back in the day at least: There really was a lot of space to do the farming needed to support people's hungry stomachs. Nowadays, trains bring in the food, I imagine.

Believe it or not, llamas(?) alpacas(?) -- one of them -- live up there. I have some pictures of some of them right before they started running past me, but where are they? Not here (yet!) .

After visting the park, I went back down to the town of Aguas Calientes and ate a mostly unmemorable meal of chicken and potatoes, but I decided for the first time on this trip to try one of the country's famous alcoholic beverage, the Pisco Sour. M'mmm. It is pretty good. At some point I read up on what is in it in my guidebook, but I cannot remember what it is. I just know it felt good going down, and for quite a while afterward. So I have decided that it is time to find the best Pisco Sour in Peru.

So that is what happened yesterday. What about today? There is no time to worry about it right now. I have to head out the door to see a presentation of KUSICKAY. kusikay.com. It is sort of like Peru's answer to Cirque do Soliel. I guess since I have never been to a Cirque du Soliel performance, I had better do watch this one while I am here. Over and out!

* I am trying to keep this blog kid-friendly.